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You chose that turn-of-the-century Victorian, ‘20s beach bungalow, or mid-century modern ranch for its character. But those “so 1980s” oak and laminate cabinets—yikes! A sunroom or extra bedroom and bath would be amazing. Seriously, the old house needs a remodeling reboot to make it more livable for today. It’s worth it when its great bones spark über potential.
You don’t have to take off those rose-colored glasses, but there’s much you need to know if you’re about to embark on a major reno. Sometimes it means taking everything down to the studs or a home’s skeleton. And what is unseen—electrical wiring, plumbing pipes, heating and cooling ducts as well as insulation—are key to making sure everything runs efficiently and safely. Because there are so many unknowns when you open up walls, don’t even think about DIY. Hire professionals.
If the house is 50 years old or more, and there are enough strong original architectural features, you may want to preserve them and/or replace elements like crown moldings when you can closely replicate the design. A general contractor can guide you on replacing, salvaging, or repairing these details.
Houses that have historic landmark status (national, state, or local) also benefit from some tax breaks. But that historic designation may limit changes you can make—especially on the exterior. If there are double-hung windows on the original façade, for example, you can’t replace them with picture windows. Even paint colors and hardware may be restricted. If you’re remodeling in a historic district, architectural style is in play.
In Chicago, landmark homes and districts are governed by an ordinance with rules and regulations detailing what can and cannot be done. Repairing existing window sashes and frames, for example, is preferred to replacing. But if windows need to be replaced, they must match in style, material, glass size, muntins (dividers), profile, and trims. Aluminum, vinyl, or other siding materials would not be suitable to substitute for wood clapboard. In brick construction, replacement with materials as close as possible to the original is advocated.
The footprint and square footage of the existing old house—and how much lot space you have around it, in the back, or to one side—determine how much you can add on. There are formulas in local zoning laws that calculate buildable space, with setbacks—how close to the front of the lot and neighboring property lines the building can be placed. Here are your options.
Build up or down
If you don’t have enough space to build out, you can build upon or create a new second story, or convert at the basement level. Check what your local zoning allows, based on total square footage of the property, and an equation that allows for the structure.
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While converting two-flats to single-family dwellings may be less expensive than building new, plumbing pipes and wiring may need to be rerouted (eliminating one kitchen for example, or relocating baths). In addition, interior staircases may need to be relocated with structural reinforcement needed when loadbearing walls are removed.
Older homes often have floor plans that just don’t work for today, with too small or chopped-up rooms. Sometimes it’s simply a matter of reconfiguring existing space.
Today, kitchens can spill into family/entertaining rooms, and include eat-in spaces at large islands or breakfast rooms. Powder room additions also serve this multifunctional space making it easily accessible for family and guests instead of climbing to another floor. Old houses like townhouse or Tudors often didn’t have first-floor bathrooms. Other modern amenities include having a washer and dryer closer to the bedrooms upstairs or converting the basement into a guest suite.
If load-bearing walls are removed, existing water, gas pipes, ductwork, and electrical wiring may need to be rerouted. Some kind of bracing, like ceiling beams and/or vertical supports, will be required.
In older homes, it’s also a good idea to make sure there is no lead in the pipes, valves, or faucets.
Many old homes are not at all well insulated, which can create drafty situations as well as severely impact heat loss. Take into consideration the age of the roof and be sure this space is in good shape. There are several ways to add insulation to an attic or to walls. Insulation is based on R-values (thermal resistance). Naturally, the higher the R-value, the better (the highest number is 45, rated on vacuum-insulated panels). For NYC historic rowhouses, an energy auditor can test for a home’s energy efficiency. The Municipal Art Society of New York advises to first consider less invasive wall or roof repairs before adding insulation or other extensive work.
Replace windows
Sometimes underneath the wall-to-wall carpeting, you’ll luck out and find original hardwood. Tack holes can be sanded out and the floors refinished. Yellowing, which often occurs with natural polyurethane finishes due to sunlight exposure or water damage, is easy to fix with sanding and refinishing. If the boards are too blackened and you’re not using a dark stain, they need to be replaced, as do warped boards.
While the whole process may be challenging, fixing any issues and fortifying the inner workings of the house will help abate surprises down the road. And then you can look around you—everything is just as you imagined! You’re soooo happy. Toast your efforts. You deserve it.
Sweeten handpicks the best general contractors to match each project’s location, budget, scope, and style. Follow the blog, Sweeten Stories , for renovation ideas and inspiration and when you’re ready to renovate, start your renovation on Sweeten .
